Saturday, February 22, 2025

Panna Tiger Reserve - a photo journey

यदि वन नहीं होता हैतो बाघ मारा जाता है;

यदि बाघ नहीं होता हैतो वन नष्ट हो जाता है|

अतःबाघ वन की रक्षा करता है एवं वन बाघ की रक्षा करता है|

-महाभारत – उद्योग पर्व : ५.२९.५७

Emerald, or Panna (पन्ना) in Hindi, a gemstone from the Beryl family, is highly valued in Indian Astrology for its association with Mercury, the planet believed to influence creative and intellectual endeavors. Reflecting this spirit of creativity, a bunch photographers, participating in the Wild Click Season-9, from all over India gathered at the Panna Tiger Reserve (PTR) with a shared goal: to capture and narrate the essence of Panna through the unique perspectives of their camera lenses. This convergence not only celebrates the pursuit of artistic excellence but also highlights the rich tapestry of Panna's natural heritage.


The verdant forests of Panna are reminiscent of the deep green hue of the gemstone 'Panna' (पन्ना). However, it is not emeralds that lie concealed within the hills, forests, and rivers of Panna, but rather diamonds (हीरा) nestled in its fissures. Established in 1971-72, the Majhgawan-Panna initiative stands as India's sole officially sanctioned diamond mining operation of industrial magnitude.

Carving a path through this diverse landscape spanning over 542.67 km² (209.53 sq mi), the Ken River, which rises in Katni, MP, traverses the Bijawar-Panna hills. It forms a dramatic 60 km long and 150-180 m deep gorge within the confines of the national park before merging with the Yamuna River at Banda, UP. Along its course, numerous streams converge with the Ken, creating a series of enchanting waterfalls that enhance the park's scenic beauty.

Tragically, Panna Tiger Reserve, established in 1994 as the 22nd Tiger Reserve of India,  witnessed the complete loss of its tiger population around 2009 due to unchecked poaching. The notorious poacher Sansar Chand, with the complicity of the Pardhi hunting tribe and the negligence of the forest department, orchestrated this loss. The outcry over the decimation at Panna, paralleled by a similar fate at Sariska, catalyzed the inception of the 'Save Our Tigers' initiative. The subsequent reintroduction of tigers from other reserves in Madhya Pradesh has been a remarkable success, with Panna now home to over 50 tigers. This resurgence has not only restored the park's natural splendor but has also revitalized tourism and, consequently, the livelihoods of the local community. The UNESCO World Heritage Site of Khajuraho is just 40 kms away.


Panna : a photo story

Tucked away in the heart of the Bundelkhand Plateau lies the enchanting region of Panna, a place where the majestic tiger roams, indigenous cultures thrive, and the earth yields sparkling diamonds. This landscape is steeped in history, as evidenced by the ancient rock carvings within the national park, which serve as a timeless testament to the intertwined narratives of humans and animals. These carvings not only add to the park's allure but also offer a window into the past, preserving the legacy of the region's rich biodiversity and cultural heritage.

 

 

Panna is not only about tigers and national parks; it is also home to spirituality. The Pranami or Dhami sect, established by Sri Prananthji, exemplifies communal harmony. Sri Prananthji emphasized the fundamental unity of all religions, especially between Hindus and Muslims. The beautifully sculpted Prananthji Temple stands as a testament to the union of arts, spirituality, and devotion. It is said the buildings have its own unique architectural style. The activities during the evening aarti are a sight to behold. As we waited, happily clicking around, the Shankhnaad resounded, and the entire campus sprang to life with a surging crowd. The place was a photographer’s delight.

 

 

 

The proximity to the famous Khajuraho temples, a UNESCO World Heritage Site just 35 km away, holds immense potential for tourism in Panna. It can be projected as a captivating tourist circuit. The Khajuraho temples, with their exquisite art and sculpture, stand as a testament to ancient craftsmanship. Being situated so close to the unique central Indian wilderness of Panna, the Khajuraho temple complex also hosts several smaller wildlife species. A stroll in the garden got me excited with plethora of macro subjects from robber fly, spiders, cicada an uncommon rock agama (Psammophilus blanfordanus). The following images celebrate this rich wildlife against the backdrop of the Khajuraho temples.


 

The revival of tigers of Panna has generated livelihood opportunities for locals in terms of tourism. Visits to national parks and tiger reserves in India are centered around tigers. Tourists choose parks that offer better tiger sightings during safaris. Thus, it is not only the tigers that need humans for protection; humans also rely on tigers for survival. The poignant message of ‘Ek Duje Ke Liye’ at a remote forest check post beautifully conveys this symbiotic relationship.


 

The park offers a night safari in experience in buffer areas. Though not very exciting from sighting point of view, this night safari gives an idea of possible human animal conflict flashpoints. There were good movement of vehicles through the forest even in the darkness and open herding of cattle in the villages. Many villagers have shifted out accepting government resettlement, but not all. They have been living here for generations and dependent on the forest for livelihood. There is a difference between one time compensation and proving a regular alternate form of livelihood.


 

Ek Duje Ke Liye Kuch Karna Hai. Humans have done a bit for repentance. तस्माद्व्याघ्रो वनं रक्षेद्वयं व्याघ्रं पालयेत् The rejuvenation of Panna has breathed new life into the park, leading to the flourishing of all forms of wildlife. Notably, vultures—a species that nearly faced extinction in India—are now thriving in Panna. Image below captures a sweeping shot of a vulture gracefully soaring through the gorge at the renowned vulture point within the tiger reserve.



The revival of tigers is achieved through a concerted effort that involves local communities. Conservation is a conundrum that can be cracked only with active participation of locals. Creating alternative livelihoods for residents is crucial to reduce their dependence on forest resources and wildlife. The Pashoo Paksheee center has played a pivotal role in this endeavor by integrating the Pardhi tribes—once infamous as hunters—into the mainstream. By providing employment opportunities, especially to Pardhi women, the center contributes to changing lives. A portion of the center’s profits is dedicated to uplifting the Pardhi community.  

However, discussions about livelihood generation from tourism remain incomplete without the inspiring stories of the Roshnis and Chandnis within the park. These local tribal girls, employed as tourist guides, lead visitors on tiger trails during safaris and serve as role models in their communities. Their infectious enthusiasm and deep knowledge of the park enhance the overall experience. The following images celebrates the remarkable journey of the Roshnis and Chandnis in Panna. The juxtaposition of the tourist in the frame highlights the contrasting lives and struggles of these girls with those of urbanites.


 


Despite all these efforts, the future of forests and wildlife does not appear buoyant. Rampant exploitation of natural resources and forest destruction in the name of development paints a gloomy picture. Panna has risen from the ashes once before, but now, are the tigers and wildlife stepping into an uncertain future? 

Let’s hope for a better future for tigers and wildlife of Panna. Let both the humans and animals live together and flourish.