It's Virasat time in Dehradun

Want to see the Ghazal maestro Jagjit Singh performing live for FREE! Come to Dehradun to witness the Virasat exhibition on 7th of October, 2006. If you happen to be in Dehradun or Mussorie around this time, you should not miss this. In fact you can indulge in sightseeing in the daytime and then relax in the Virasat Village in the evening enjoying some good performances. This year Virasat is being celebrated from 5th to 19th October.

Virasat is a fortnight long folk exhibition aimed at sensitizing people to the folk life of India. It is organized by Reach (Rural Entrepreneurship for Art & Cultural Heritage) – a non profit organization. In fact it had become one of the important events in the tourism calendar of Dehradun. Organised between Dusserah and Diwali, the event consists of exhibition, film festival, workshops, live drama performances and cultural evenings which are graced by noted artists from both India and Pakistan. More importantly there is no admission fee. The entire festival is FREE. However, for events like film festivals and drama, one needs to register and obtain prior invitation cards as seats are limited in those venues.

The main attraction of the festival is the cultural evening. Last year we watched live performances of Ghulam Ali (Ghazal), Abeeda Parveen (Sufi) and Wadali Bandhu (Sufi Quawwali). This year’s prime attractions will be Jagjit Singh (Ghazal) and Tejan Bai (Pandavani). Both will be performing live in the village on the 7th October evening. Quawwali by Warsi Brothers is scheduled for the evening of 8th October and Wadali Bandhus (Sufi) on 9th October. In between these there will be numerous folk performances from across the nation. For security reasons, mobile phones and cameras are bared from all venues this year.

Living in the Dehradun, the previous editions of Virasat became a way of life. We were the privileged ones as the ‘village complex’ is constructed in the ONGC colony stadium in Dehradun. (We used to live in the ONGC Colony in Dehradun). We will be missing Virasat this time.

Around Dehradun : Kalsi

Kalsi : 14th rock edict of Ashoka
Kalsi is the gateway to Chakrata and is located around 50 km from Dehradun. Besides the gate, the place has a famous historical monument. Located just 200 meters from the gate, it is the 14th rock edict of Ashoka. If you are interested in history, then is one monument you should visit while in Dehradun, specially if you live in Dehradun. Outside travelers may get disappointed to see this monument standing in isolation near a field. There are many such historical monuments spread around gallis and mohallas of Delhi, most of them belonging to the mogul era. But this one belonged to a different era – medieval India. Samrat Ashoka ruled India from 273 BC to 223 BC. It is standing here for several centuries. One can visit this on the way to Chakarata. Arrive around 30 minutes ahead of gate opening time you are planning to catch to be able to visit this monument.

After embracing Buddhism, Samarat Ashoka, the Mauryan king got erected 14 rock edicts spread around his vast empire. These were orders of the king that were expected to be followed by his subjects. This 14th edict was brought into light by britisher John Forest in 1860. The then government of United Province got a dome shaped house erected over it for its protection in mar, 1912. This monument is now protected and looked after by archaeological deptt. of Govt. of India. The piece of rock is about 10 feet tall and 5 feet wide. The front side of the rock is almost completely covered in writings with letters of about 2-inch size. The writings on the rock are in Prakrit language and brahmi script. It generally speaks of the leading principles of Buddhism. But there is no specific mention of Budha or his teachings as such. The edict also has the picture of an elephant on the right hand side.

Brief summery of the edicts of Ashoka :
This is what was collected about edicts of Ashoka from the site. The first prohibits slaughtering and sacrifices of animals. The second provides for medical aid for both man and animal, records sowing of herbs, digging of wells and planting trees. The third enjoins upon his official to form a quinquennial circuit (i.e., travel to a different place every five year) for the promulgation of the teachings of Buddhism, viz. honoring of parents and religious teachers, liberality, tolerance and kindness to animals. The fourth pictures the regeneration of the country under Ashoka’s ordinances. The fifth records appointment of censors of the sacred law. The sixth regulates the manner in which all matters relating to the welfare of his people are to be brought to the king for prompt dispatch of business. The seventh depicts the earnest desire of the king that in every place man of every denomination may abide. The eight compares the carnal amusements formerly patronized by the king (before he adopted dharma) with the more harmless and pious occupation since adopted by him. The ninth deals with auspicious rites. In the tenth, the king deprecates the glory of the material pleasure and gives importance to the joy achieved through promulgation of dharma. The eleventh says that spreading the principles of dharma is a way of alms giving. The twelfth enjoins tolerance in the matter of religion. The thirteen bears special interest as it speaks of five Greek kings. The fourteenth edict is a summary or epilogue of the foregoing.

The road guidance:
At Herbertpur crossing, take the right turn towards Vikasnagar. Kalsi is 14 km from Herbertpur. Dehradun to Herbertpur is 37 km. This road is called the Chakrata Road.

Chakrata : Got chilled this christmas

Snow, reindeers, a sledge and a smiling Santa conjures up the image of a perfect Christmas. Most of the high altitude hill stations in North India had a perfect Christmas this year. There was no Santa, but there was plenty of snow this Christmas. So, while the entire North India was shivering in the unrelenting cold wave making most people stay indoors, we had decided to get chilled. And we got chilled at the little known place called Chakrata.

The place:
Chakrata is a tiny hill town located around 95 km from Dehradun via Kalsi. Its altitude is about 7000 feet, i.e., around 500 feet more than that of Mussorie. Chakrata is a restricted area and foreign nationals are not allowed. We did not get any affirmative answer as to why Chakrata is declared a restricted area but found two plausible answers. One is that army has a training centre for its intelligence units. The other one we got from an army officer is that Indian Army trains here forces from Tibbet. I did not know that Tibbet has its own army (commanded by Dalai Lama!!).

How to reach there : the driving guide
There are two routes from Dehradun – via Kalsi and via Mussorie. We took the route via Kalsi as it is shorter. The road is on plains upto Kalsi and beyond that it is all hills. The road between Kalsi and Chakrata is one way with gate system. Gates at both ends opens at the same time with 2 ½ hrs. intervals between each opening. So you may have to wait if you arrive at Kalsi between gate openings. Be sure to put your vehicle as much ahead as possible in the queue and make entries at the gate. There is one more gate at a place named Sahiya which is the mid point of this stretch where vehicles from both side crosses. No entry is required at the gate at Sahiya. The gates are manned by army personnel. The road distances from Dehradun are as under:

Dehradun 0.0km
Herbertpur 34 km…Turn right here for Vikasnagar
Vikasnagar 06 km
Kalsi 08 km….There is a diversion here. Keep moving straight will take you to
the gate at Kalsi
Sahiya 21 km….Take right turn over a small bridge at Sahiya
Chakrata 25 km….Keep moving straight by the road to Tiuni for hotel
Jhadi 13 km….This is on the road to Tiuni. Motorable but two way road.
Lokhand 20 km
Kanasar 06 km….One of the point on sightseeing list.
Koti 29 km
Tiuni 80 km

You would be traveling at the most to Kanasar. You should have enough petrol in the tank to drive about 150 km in the hill. There is no petrol pump beyond Vikasnagar. No petrol pumps at Kalsi, Sahiya or Chakrata. You may get petrol paying a premium at Chakrata but that will most likely be adulterated.

Accommodation at Chakrata :
There are only two hotels for tourists. One is Hotel Snow View and the other one is Hotel Himalaya Darshan. Both these are located on the Chakrata – Tiuni motor road. Keep moving straight through the gate for going to any of these hotels. The road that goes to the right near the gate goes to the local market (1.5 km) and also to Mussorie (via Kempty Fall). We were told that the market has two guesthouses for local travelers only, not meant for tourists. We stayed at the Hotel Snow View which is located about 1 km from the gate. The other hotel is located further downhill and is about 6 km from the gate. The Hotel Snow View is housed in an old building with nice backdrop of a section of snow clad Himalayan peaks. Each of the rooms is actually suites and has two rooms. Though it lacks many things you may want, but it still is a good hotel at such an isolated place. Rooms have tiled flooring and also have fire place. We bargained for Rs.400/- per room which I felt was a good price. Honestly speaking, you will have no option but to pay whatever they ask. Hotel phone nos. are ---

Hotel Snow View : 01360-272241 / 272242 / 272231 (www.chakratasnowview.com)

What to see at Chakrata :
Chakrata provides a 5-6 km range of Himalaya on its backdrop. We were told that if there is no snow, then there is nothing to enjoy there. Well, this of course was opinion of travelers who do not fit into off-beat category. The place provides you a break from the hustle bustle of a hectic life. If you can not go to far away places like Kausani, then you can come here. Chakrata town itself has nothing to see. What you can see is as under:

Tiger Fall : This is a magnificent 360 feet fall located 20 kms away. Start by the Tiuni road and then you will have to take a diversion about 2 km or so to go down. After driving for 20 kms, you will have to track for about 20 minutes to go the foot of the fall. Going down would be easy, but stay aware of the fact that you will have to climb up that track afterwards.

Deoban : 16 km from Chakrata at an altitude of 9500 feet. From the name it seems to be a forest of Deodar or Pine. You need to take a diversion from the Tiuni road , may be after traveling for 5 / 6 km. But from that point onwards you will have to track. If you are interested then you may check out tracking programmers conducted by Forest Deptt.

Kanasar : Located 26 km away on the Tiuni road. Altitude not available. But my guess is that for going there you will have to drive at least 1000 feet up from Chakrata. It is said to have a thick forest of Deodar. The Deodar trees here said to have the largest trunk in Asia.

My Trip : 24 hours in Chakrata
As Indians we could travel to Chakrata without any hindrance. We started from Dehradun at around 10 am to be able to catch the 12:30 pm gate comfortably. We killed the spare time by visiting the rock edict of Ashoka located near the gate at Kalsi. By arriving early at the gates we were almost in front of the queue of vehicles. There was a long line of vehicles consisting mostly of pickup jeeps which seemed to be the common mode of travel in this area. The road between Kalsi and Sahiya was mostly dusty with stretches damaged in landslides. It is difficult to maintain roads in the hills in this area because of landslides. My driving in hills has improved a lot because of the several forays I have made in the hills in the last one-year or so. In fact, I have started enjoying driving in the hills. My Wagon-R’s power steering has been of great help. In my last trip, I tried driving a car of my colleague without power steering in the hills. It was terrible. We reached Sahiya well ahead of time. At Sahiya, take the right turn over the bridge to be on the queue at the gate. In face we missed this diversion and went straight for a kilometer or so. Once we realized the mistake, we had to come back to the gate. But by that time, we had fallen behind in the queue. However, once started, I could easily get ahead of the motorcade. The road between Sahiya and Chakrata was much better. We finally reached Chakrata at around 2:15 pm.

After a brief enquiry, we found a hotel to stay and checked into Hotel Snow View which is located about 1km away from the gate. Though there is a sign to guide you to the approach of the hotel, the approach is not built completely and doubt may pop up in your mind whether you are on the right track. The sun went behind the hills as early as 3:30pm. This made the place very cold. We felt that the cold in Dehradun was biting. But this was icy cold that would make you shriek. There was a strong cold breeze which was worsening the matter. We had no option but to stay indoors. I got out in the afternoon expecting the snow clad peaks to turn pink. But it was not as spectacular as I had expected. Meanwhile, all my fellow travelers remained stuck to the comfort of their rooms. There were TVs in rooms, but the cable network was out of order. Voltage was so low that hotel had to use generator. Because of the abnormal low voltage, the geyser could barely warm the water. The tap water was icy cold and just a mug of water would maim your palms for few minutes. Fortunately, the rooms had fire place and we could arranged for fire in our room at an extra charge of fifty bucks. For dinner, you need to tell them early so that they can buy items from market if required The menu has non-veg but both chicken and mutton were available not on a plate basis but on ½ kilo or 1 kilo basis. We had a relatively early dinner and went to bed as there were no means to kill time.

Next morning we got up early to experience the sunrise. It turned out to be another damp squib. There was nothing spectacular as the peaks hardly turned orange. But what was soothing was the sight of a light layer of snow on roof of my car. This meant that there had been snowfall previous night in nearby areas. After breakfast, we checked out of the hotel at around 10am. Rather than tracking to the Tiger Fall, we decided to enjoy the snow and so headed for Kanasar. Anyway snow is always alluring for most of us from plains.

Kanasar is on the Chakrata – Tiuni road. We had hardly traveled 1 km when we get to see the first patch of snow on the road. The patches become more frequent and bigger as we moved up. Though this road is two way, there was hardly any traffic. The scenery unfurling on both sides of the road was really magnificent. These hills in Uttaranchal are really fascinating. They provide breathtaking views while you drive. We had crossed at least three very high hills en-route and so my guess was that we traveled to at least 1000 feet more from Chakrata. However, there were no road signs to confirm. With 4 adults, my Wagon-R refused to move even at 2nd gear in some places. It was kind of 3rd gear for 65%, 2nd for 25% and 1st gear for 5%. The only residential area we had crossed was Jhadi, located 13 km away from Chakrata. The small population there looked like a Tibetan settlement. Caracas of a monkey hanged on a pole greets you to this area. We went ahead further and reached Lokhand, located 20kms from Chakrata. On taking the turn at the top of a hill there, a thick cover of snow on the road of ahead greeted us. After a brief pause and inspection of the road, I drove ahead carefully, but found the road slippery. It was my first experience of driving in snow. Just a little pressure on brakes made the vehicle to skid. I drove for about ½ km to get into a clear area. We all got down and walked for more than a kilometer of road covered in about 4 inch fresh snow. At many places snow had become ice and we were skidding even while walking down the road. I could not gather courage to drive further. The hotel owner told that there would be at least a feet deep snow at Kanasar. But there was no way we can travel to Kanasar though it was just 5 kilometer away from this point. We had enough snow to lift our spirits. It was perfect Christmas for all of us. We called off the trip at Lokhand and came back to Chakrata.

We managed lunch at the only eatery near the gate. In hills, you can not afford to be choosy. Eat wherever you get. We took the 3:30 pm gate and reached Kalsi by 5:15pm or so. It was dark by the time we reach Dehradun. One more trip has come to an end. What was special is that this time I probably had driven to about 8000 feet or more, the maximum I had ever driven. After coming back, I felt confident enough to drive to Badrinath. Also this may be my last trip from Dehradun as I will be moving to Delhi on transfer soon.

(Note: This trip was taken on 24th and 25th December, 2005)

Off-beat Dehradun : Santhala Devi Temple

Off-beat Himalayas is a popular term generously used on the net to attract exploring tourists to those little known destinations which are off the radar of the average tourist that travels to well known destinations only. Such places are everywhere, but because of lack of information one tends to stay away from it. Last Sunday, we have been to one such place within Dehradun which I am certain that even many Dunites living here for years have not seen. The place is a temple named Santhala Devi.

The place was just 7.5 km (excluding the 2 km track) drive from the ONGC colony towards Garhi Cantt. This means it is a mere 4.5 km from the junction at Garhi Cantt. It is the same road that goes to the more famous Tapkeswar Temple. But instead of taking a left turn, keep moving straight by the main road. Soon after crossing a bridge, you will get a cantonment complex named Birpur Estate. Further ahead you get another cantonment complex named Gonghora. Move ahead right through the gate of this complex. The army personal posted at the gate will not stop you. If you get a fountain named Phillora Fountain then you are on right track. A few meters ahead you get a diversion at Milan Chowk. Take right turn. There is not much confusion beyond it. Keep moving till you reach the end of the road. The road will take you to the foothill of the temple. A stream, may be a rivulet, gently flowing has made this place a picnic spot. The day being a Sunday, the place was bustling with picnic goers. Maneuvering the crowd and haphazardly parked vehicles, we reached the paid parking lot and parked our cars.

Then we set out on the track to the temple. The temple is on the top of a nearby hill. It was 2 km up from this point onwards. The climb was very stiff. It was difficult to ascertain how much you have climbed. When we asked those coming down as to how much is left, the common reply was that we had covered only half of the track and half is still left. The demoralizing effect almost made me gave up after traveling 3/4th of the track. Take my advice, do not ask anybody coming down a hill. It took almost an hour for us to reach the temple.

The temple is dedicated to Snthala Devi, probably a loacl deity as I have not heard of any such godess. Being inside a cantonment area, some unit of army has facilitated construction of the temple complex. Besides, the reigning deity, there were few other idols including that of Vishnu. Out side the temple, there is a tree where devotees tie knot with the traditional red ribbons to seek good luck. These will probably be untied when the wishes are fulfilled. There is no place left on the tree. I have seen that people had inserted small papers writing their names within the knots so that they can identify them later. Some has even put visiting cards. Ingenious ideas! There also is a viewpoint in the complex.

Animal sacrifices are made in the temple. There is a sacrificial spot just outside the temple. The blood of hundreds of animals that have been killed here over the years has covered the place in gory red colour. It was generating the kind a foul smell you get at butcher’s place. This signifies that some form of Shakti is worshipped here in the name of Snatala Devi. We did not witness any sacrifice during the half hour stay, but while coming up we saw many headless goats and chickens being carried by devotees. This is the second sacrificial spot I have seen in my life. The other such place I have seen is in the Kamrup Kamakhya temple in Guwahati. That was a long time ago when I was a kid, probably 6 years old. I have heard that large animals are no more sacrificed in Kamakhya.

Coming down was much easier. We made it in about half an hour. Picnics have reached their peak or the effects of booze have reached its peak. It was high time for lunch. We spotted a group that were enjoying picnic with the chicken sacrificed in the temple. Only the head is offered to God, the body is for mortals to eat! Who would eat a chicken head anyway? We too were feeling hungry after spending so much of energy. Many roadside hotels have sprung up in the foothill area which is very common in such places around Dehradun. But all of them seem to sell chowmin only. So we left the place to find a proper eatery for a late lunch.

That summed up the trip. It was more a tracking trip then pilgrimage. The quickest one this year, but undoubtedly the one that required maximum physical effort.

Dehradun Paltan Bazar razed down

The Paltan Bazar in Dehradun has been the favourite evening hotspot for most of our ONGC colleagues during their IMD (now Academy) days. The Paltan bazar is just one of the bazars in that area that sells regular daily wears. Interweaved by gallis, there in fact are many bazaars in that area about which you may not have heard. We were used to the narrow road that dissects the Paltan Bazar unmindful of the fact that constricted road is a result of encroachments from both sides. Local authorities sprung into action on 27th June after reprimanded by court for not taking any action despite court orders. It all started around 11 in the morning. My wife who went to the market got caught in the mess. According to her account, more than 300 policemen cordoned off the market and nobody was allowed to come or leave the market area. Traffic from Kaulagarh side was stopped at Bindal Bridge. Bulldozers were pressed into service, which demolished all the unauthorized constructions. All the shops had lost their front doors as they were illegally extended on to the road. Some shops were totally razed down.

When I went to the market last Saturday, it looked more like a construction site with debris scattered all around. Few shops have managed to reopen. Others are busy removing the debris or repairing what is leftover. It is understood that notice have been sent to other areas / markets as well. I could see people making alterations in their buildings themselves in Moti Bazaar and Macchi Bazar areas before the axe falls. This action has indeed sent a strong message though many shopkeepers seem confident that this was just one off incident. But as of now, we in Dehradun has to postpone certain shopping for want of Paltan Bazar.

Robbers Cave : See to believe it

The place is just 8 kms from the ONGC Colony at Kaulagarh Road (only 5.4 km from the Garhi Cantt. tinali). So near, yet we never had been there. It also has another name Guchhopani. A quietly flowing stream has formed a cave like structure in the rocks. The entrance indeed gives the impression of a cave. A narrow passage between two rocky structures leads you into the cave. The width varies from 4 to 8 feet. Keep moving slowly in ankle to knee-deep flowing water that is soothingly cool. I traveled for may be about 100 meters to find a kind of end where the stream seemed to have emerged. A small pool has formed at the point of falling water. From the colour of water it appeared to be deep. I had no one with me to explore further. May be I could have seen more had I climbed the rocks to explore what else is there behind the rocks. I was walking bare feet and so the rocky bed of the stream had started hurting. I had decided to come back.

The passage had a kind of mysterious look into it. I bet few would have dared to enter it alone or had it not been a tourist spot. It is appropriately named Robbers Cave. In our childhood days when there was only the radio to entertain us, we had patiently listened to a play named ‘Surangar Seshat’ meaning at the end of the tunnel where robbers fled through a tunnel and police were after them. Robbers Cave would have an good setting for such a chase scene had it been a movie. I had tried to take a few snaps. Though I had a 400 roll, I had no tripod to take care of the very low light. Lets see what happens. I also saw a big owl up in the tree, the biggest I had ever seen in wild. It looked to me about 1 1/2 feet size from down below. But again I did not carry my 300 mm lens. Next time I will come here with my tripod.

Once you leave the main road, you will face a very steep narrow road where two cars can barely pass. Going down in place within Dehradun, you will wonder that Dehradun is actually up in the hills. Only bad thing about the place is that it is not properly maintained and promoted. But you still will enjoy it.

Next week a trip is being planned to Chakrata. It is located at a higher altitude than Mussorie. Lets see if it materializes.