Showing posts with label Cochin. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Cochin. Show all posts

Friday, October 27, 2006

Cochin : sunset through Chinese fishing nets

This has been my second visit to Cochin and Kerala in two years. Kerala is made for tourists. Honesty of people and their approach in dealing with tourist is heart warming. It is totally different from one’s experience in the North India. Take for example Delhi. Everyone you meet after landing in Delhi – from the coolie (the porter) to the autowallah (the cab driver) to the so called Tourist Information Bureau operator, will try to cheat you. This is so sick mentality and highly detestable. Even though I live here, I hate this place. I would always suggest one to avoid Delhi and go to places where people are honest. Kerala is one such place where you can travel in peace and enjoy the beauty nature has bestowed upon it.

My accommodation was booked by the Agatti Island Beach Resort (AIBER) office at Bijou’s Tourist Home on the Canon Shed Road, which was very close to the main jetty. The prepaid auto from the Ernakulum Junction station was only Rs.20/-. The hotel charges were Rs.500 + Rs75 (tax) for 24 hours. The room was good and clean. Toilet was good, a basic necessity to be called a good place to stay. Though it had a cafeteria that serves breakfast, it does not have its own restaurant. So we had to walk down to the City Park Restaurant located on its back. The food there was delicious and tasty. And the rates were quite reasonable.

I found that there are many hotels and tourist homes around this place. The landmark for the place is ‘Colombo Hotel Junction’ where the Cannon Shed Road and the Market Road intersects. This is right in the heart of the city and is very close the main boat jetty from where one can catch a local ferry to Fort Kochi or Willingdon Island. It definitely is better place than the ATS Willingdon hotel where I had stayed last time. ATS was costlier, but it is located on a secluded stretch from where one has to hire an auto or taxi to travel out. Cochin basically consists of three parts – Ernakulum is the main town (and rail head), in between is Willingdon Island and then Fort Kochi. Fort Kochi is the place where almost all ‘must see’ tourist spots of Cochin lies and hence most foreign tourists stay there. In fact I am told that the hotels there prefer only foreign guests rather than Indian guests.

This time I was determined to see the sunset at Fort Kochi in the backdrop of the famous Chinese fishing nets. Introduced by traders from China centuries back, these nets are one of the landmarks of Cochin. I missed the sunset last time as I visited the area during daytime like most regular tourists do and hence I wanted to stay in Fort Kochi this time. Being familiar with Cochin helped me to travel cheaply. We walked down to the boat jetty which was hardly 300 mtrs, may be, from my hotel. From there we boarded a local ferry to Fort Kochi. The fare was only Rs.2.50. An auto would have taken at least Rs.70/-. In half an hours time we landed in the jetty at Fort Kochi. It was about a kilometers walk to the spot where Chinese fishing nets are parked.

The place was not crowded as most tourists come here in the morning. May be the fear of Chickengunya had kept Indian tourists away from Kerala. However, foreign tourist soon started arriving to see the sunset. Restaurant owners started approaching us to avail the ‘You buy fish and we cook for you’ facility. One of them even took me to a fish seller in the nearby market. There I found the odd man out in Kerala. The fisherman tried to cheat. For 4 small unknown fishes he asked Rs.100/-. I told him that fishes are much cheaper in Delhi. May be he is used to selling at that price to foreign tourists. Thus the ‘you buy’ part ended there and so do the ‘we cook’ part. We decided to bide time sipping fruit juice.

I clicked few nice shots before sunset. One of the fishermen even asked us to come over to his fishing net. He showed us some of his catch including a catfish. He even offered me to walk to the tip of the net to get some good shots. But I was not that intrepid to walk 20 feet over water on a single trunk of log with two cameras hanging from my neck. I thanked him and clicked a photo of him. He also clicked a family photo for us.

Soon the sun started to turn orange. I found many shutterbugs, most of whom were foreign tourist, already taking their positions. Cameras were clicking fast and furiously to capture the magnificent sunset. I tried to find a vantage point and joined the group. As the sun started going down the sea in distant horizon, the sky turned majestic. For the first time I had tried exposure bracketing. I probably shoot about 10 frames in that final 5 minutes or so. I have got the results now. Some of the shots are really stunning. And the rich saturated colour of my Kodak Professional 100 made some of the shots look surreal. The outcome of the evening was worth its effort. My Cochin trip is now complete in all respect.

After the sunset, we returned back taking the same route. But this time we boarded a boat that is run by a different operator. I understood this deviation only on reaching Ernakulum as it landed us in a different jetty than one near our hotel. I had no idea about how far we need to travel to our hotel, but knew that we need to walk down the road known as the Marine Drive of Cochin. After walking for some distance we had a premonition that we might have a long way still left and it would be wise to hire an auto. So I stopped an auto and asked him how much to pay. He replied 10 rupees. When we were dropped at the hotel, we found that it was almost 2 km or so and would have been hard to walk down. Just imagine the honesty of the autowallah here. I was a tourist and was with my family looking for an auto at night. But still he did not exploit my situation. He charged me what is probably correct fare. Even if he had asked for Rs.30/- or so, I would have paid in that situation. In north, specially in Delhi, one would have been taken for a ride in such a situation. This is why Kerala is such a nice place for tourist.

So that is Cochin. You can also read about my first visit to Cochin two years back. This time I could also grab a copy of ‘Hello Cochin’ which is a treasure trove of information on Cochin. Please do write to me in case I may be of any help.

Monday, July 18, 2005

Planning a trip to Kerala -II: Cochin


Tourism in Kerala can be broadly classified into two circuits viz., beaches in South and backwater in North. You have to decide what you want to experience. If your plan is to be in the beaches, then go to south and head for Thiruvananthapuram (or Trivandrum). That itinerary should include Kanyakumari as well. However if your plan is to experience the backwaters and the real Kerala, then head for Cochin. My word is head for Cochin and experiences the backwaters. It is breathtaking, splendid, and magnificent. Words cannot describe your feelings amidst this resplendent beauty specially bestowed by God. Someone truly wrote – Like an epic poem, Linking a glorious past to an unfolding present, it is the God’s Own Country. This circuit includes Munnar, Thekkady (Periyar), Allepey and Kumarakkom.

The tales of backwaters had always allured me and so I headed for Cochin.

Cochin :

After being hauled through six states by the great Indian railway, I landed in Ernakulam Junction on a fine evening in Feb, 2004. Cochin is basically divided into 3 parts. Ernakulam is the main city (and rail head), Fort Cochi is where tourist goes and then you get the manmade Willingdon Island connecting these two places. Fort Cochi is where you should stay in Cochin because most of the places of tourist interest are there. I too headed for Fort Cochi but found no accommodation there though there were a good number of hotels there. The place is mostly occupied by foreigners. After scouting for accommodation, I had to come back to Willingdon Island and put up at ATS Willingdon Hotel. It was a good hotel charging Rs.850/- for a double room plus taxes. But the location is very isolated. You can also think of staying in Ernakulam as KTDC boat tours of Cochin are conducted from there. But ideal place is Fort Cochi. Book there before you go.

I hired a taxi for around Rs.400/- for local sightseeing of Cochin next morning. Cochin sightseeing hardly takes you half a day. There are the Chinese Fishing Nets in Fort Cochi, then the St. Thomas Church which is the first church built in India and then visit to the Muttoncherry Dutch Palace. That’s all you have to watch in Cochin. You will end up spending most of the time in Fort Cochi and so I told that prefer to stay at Fort Cochi. The big Chinese Fishing Nets which needs 6/7 man to operate are the main attractions there. Chinese traders introduced these nets. You will also see the ships getting in and out of Cochin harbor. Dolphins are also spotted here. Dolphins ? Yes, I mean dolphins! Just spend some time on the banks and you will get to see many dolphins. There are small boat operators in that area who charges around Rs.200/- per trip for dolphin watching. But you are really not required to take this trip. Just spend some time on some stalls on the banks sipping some natural cold drinks and you will get to see many dolphins. Cochin is called the Venice of the East. It was once a busy trading port for spices.

There were many travel agents at Fort Cochi market area. I approached one Matha Taxis to decide on my future course of travel. A guy named Anthony manned it and the guy was good. Kerala economy thrives on tourism and so these travel agents are not like those found in Delhi. If you approach those so-called travel agents around New Delhi station, you will be doomed and have to cut short your visit, as they will loot you as much as they could. But Kerala is totally different. I hired a car from him for next 3 days and also booked a houseboat at Allepey. The rate agreed for houseboat was Rs.5000/- for a double bedroom boat. As I had mentioned in my last article the rate I paid for houseboat was much cheaper than what is normally quoted in the net.

As my sightseeing in Cochin was over by noon, I had checked out in the afternoon and proceeded for Munnar. On the way out of Cochin, I found the city to be very scenic. Abundant water bodies and coconut grooves were adding to the beauty of the surroundings. I got the first glimpse of backwater alleys. This completes my Cochin trip. If you plan to spend one complete day in Cochin, then take a village backwater tour in Cochi in the afternoon. Matha Taxi conducts such tours. I am giving you few numbers below that may be helpful to you.

Matha Taxis : Office at Fort Cochi. Phone – 0484-2215534, 2215334 Mob - 0944716636
Email -- mathataxi@hotmail.com

KTDC : Office at Ernakulum. Phone – 0484-2353234, 2382199
Email – ktdccok@sancharnet.in website – http://www.ktdc.com/

ATS Willingdon Hotel : 0484-2667643, 2667282 Email : atswillingdonhotel@vsnl.net

(Next I will be writing about Munnar)